This 13th-century church is adorned with superb frescoes. The oldest, from 1350, depicts St Christopher carrying Christ across a ford, but most of the vaults are covered with a cartoon-like ‘paupers’ Bible’ by the ‘Elmelunde master’. Unique images include a gruesome one of Judas, with two devils pulling out his soul; Mary on doomsday, tipping the judgment scales in humanity’s favour; and a gleeful horny-kneed demon listening to two women gossiping!


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