Drive up to Nayrn at 2000m was just another 150km south. But staying at high altitude does make doing anything just bit breathless.
First night is a CBT (community based tourism project), where local families provide a room or flat, mine was single room in flat with 3 bedrooms, on bottom floor of apartment block, but with little secure parking. To cut story short, some 5 youths disturbed bike at 11pm so moved to secure hotel parking 1km away. CBT price at 700som or £7 is cheap.
Next night in posh hotel £8, big double room & nice breakfast.
Jolly to Tourgart border, at 180km bit further than I thought, hope for spectaclar views of big mountains, some 60km roadworks = bumpy roads, otherwise perfect highway. China border is lonely spot, dozen big lorries, did meet some other bikers from Greece on an old GS – friendly. Wanted to run back round yellow road – is permit required?, just more gravel and hopefuly better views right along China border, but it rained so turned hard packed earth to slime – very slippery, it just took all day and another spill (2nd indicator stork broke). At final check point, “U can’t be here!” Or U do need a permit – but let me pass as I was leaving area (did search bike for drugs!), Just 84km of gravel & 2 passes to Nayrn, home 7pm rather muddy.
Maybe try B&B in a Yurt, but locals I saw today just wanted me back to their hut for drinking & some cash.