Qiubei look around
Quibei was famous for its karst landforms, and Puzhehei lived the reputation. The last time I had been inside the site was 11 years ago, and the village was almost deserted, but now…the Puzhehei village had been expanded and many guesthouses spouted provided better accommodation. It would be a nice place to hang out, only not on any holiday or festival time. Now you could see all those fun-fair activities around the park entrance, more like a childern park. I only spend time to trail the old route(now a well designated trail) up the Qinglong hill for the splendid view of the area, still lovely, if I could compared the photo from 11 years ago…nggg…only more houses dotted this picture of landscape.
Instead of staying at Puzhehei I choose to sleep in Qiubei town as it would be easiler for me to accessed to market by local bus. The local market around the bus station was alive by the seasonal mushroom dealing, and a good chance to spotted tribal in action. I visited Pingzhai market, a Zhuang and Miao dominated place, here in Quibei are mostly Sha-Zhuang, shiny bright colour head turban with both tails spread out behind their head, long sleeve tight shirt and long trousers, most had a front apron. In the market I also seen a new Yi sub-group, they call themselves Pu-Yi, dark long sleeve jacket open on the right, with a green and pink color strips run along the lapel, but the stripe came down to the left chest area, embroidery pattern on elbows, wore front apron and long trousers, old women still kept the long turban headdress.
The Shupi market was also Miao dominated, like all the other Miao dominated market in Wenshan region, shaman and fortune teller fortified one corner of the market, anything could be the charmer for the ritual, be it a gong, an egg, paper money from the Bank of Heaven, even a tiny duckee could become the evil destroyer. There was a lot of followers and believers, as I could see the crowd gathered up waiting for their turn. Modernization still not impending this part of the world I guessed but…only the mobile phone did! Compared with Pingzhai, Shupi market was huge, beside the standard Miao and Sha-Zhuang, couple of Nong-Zhuang showup too, but the most eye catching sight were the Yi with their bright colour costume and embroidered apron. The last market in Quibei this time was Wenliu, said to be the most populated area for Yao, that was why I went there as it was where the unique blue collar Yao lived. I saw some of those women in the market, enquired about Panhuangjie, but they said they didn’t celebrated it in Quibei, disappointed and the end of the line. Market in Wenliu was small but the sight around the valley was pretty, especially after the mountain ridge before descended down to Wenliu, the many layers of mountain range unfolded out as far as eye could see.
Beside the Zhuang, there was Buyi as well, but here they also call themselves Zhuang, of course they dressed different with loose jacket, double sleeves, one longer than the others. Wrapped simple turban and wore baggy trousers.
Quibei offered an unique market scene with buffalo or horse carts, which carried a strongly build basket behind for passengers.