My sour mood instantly changed the moment I stepped onto the catamaran destined for Morro de Sao Paulo off of the coastal mainland from Brazil. It’s not that Salvador was bad or anything, I just needed a change and to move on and getting onto that boat knowing I was bound for an island was just what the doctor ordered. The trip into the Atlantic was very soothing to me, and very sickening to others. I really enjoy everything about boats and especially being on them. I took a somewhat dark satisfaction watching people turn green with seasickness and lose it in the little bags provided or over the edge of the ship. I just soaked up the sun on the deck, laughed, and enjoyed the two hour ride knowing soon I’d be beachside.
Once I showed up at Morro I needed to set off for accommodation as I had not pre-booked anything. I knew that this should not be a problem as their are a thousand Pousadas, Guesthouses, and Hostels that dot the island. It also being low season I wans’t worried about vacancy. So off I went in the 90 degree heat with my bag in search of the unknown. The first two hostels I looked at were really bad and smelled the same. Each wanted R$27 (about $14) per night for a six person dorm with shared facilities. I declined and tried a private guesthouse just off of the beach. The asking price for the private room including kitchenette was R$60 which I secured for R$30 (about $16) due to my hardball tactics. I was sorted and pleased.
Morro de Sao Paulo is what I had in mind when I came to the coast of Brazil. The island is comprised of four main beaches aptly named 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th beach respectively as you make your way from the main dock. The 1st beach is where the town area is. The 2nd, where I am staying, is where all of the restaurants, bars, and clubs are located. This location has a very nice beach with many places to swim, surf, snorkel, etc. and is always the most crowded. The 3rd beach is always underwater when high tide comes in (around 11am) so I’ve never actually seen it. The 4th beach is quite a hike away and is the most secluded. Here is where I’ve spent most of my time. It is very large, quiet and has white powdery sand to put between your toes and palm lined rainforest at you back. Very nice indeed. This was my spot and my view for the past couple days.
I haven’t really been doing much except lounging around the beach then making lunch in my room before heading out for some more swimming and sunshine. In the afternoon a little island exploration and then in the evening shower, do Internet stuff, eat dinner, then stream NHL playoffs. I’ve kept pretty much to myself. The place is pretty empty except for a few families here and there. The travelers here are all primarily Israeli which to me seems strange that their is not much diversity here. Even a lot of the signs and guesthouse advertisements are written in Hebrew. My attempts to meet some Israelis have been rebuffed by one word answers and faces of non-interest. You’d think being an American I’d get a better response being that I pay for 90% of their defense budget and my country is hated by most of the East because of it, but I digress. I don’t mind riding solo for now and it’s probably for the better as I’m sure my politics do not match their own (sorry to generalize but these Israleis in South America don’t branch out much and pretty much stick together).
So tomorrow I will check out and hop on a boat for Valenca back on the mainland. From there I hope to catch a bus South to Itacare, another small beach town, where I will try a craft I haven’t done since I was a kid growing up in Orange County California. Should be fun.